My Dream Trip to Northern Italy
Recently, I learned my DNA ancestry composition is only 3.4% Italian, and I thought “how could that be?” I assumed my love for Italy meant I have lots of Italian blood coursing through my veins. Turns out, I’m Italian mostly at heart!
Prior to September 2023, I’d visited Italy twice, once in my 40s and once at age 50. I was traveling solo then and opted to book with tour groups of around 20 people. The 1st visit was a food and wine tour through Tuscany and Umbria, the 2nd, a walking tour along the Amalfi Coast.
Finally, I Got to Plan My Dream Trip!
The prior trips to Italy via organized tour groups were amazing. Yet I had a deep desire to plan and live out my version of an Italian dream trip. That opportunity came later rather than sooner, but I finally insisted to my partner I intended to schedule a trip to Northern Italy for September 2023.
While planning the trip to Italy, an opportunity to travel to Japan for May 2023 materialized. My article “Wanderlust in Japan and Elsewhere” describes that trip. I was more than eager to travel to Japan, but I was not about to let that trip replace my long-awaited return to Italy!
Travel by Rail
Travel by rail in Japan (our first experience doing so) gave us the confidence boost we needed to take on Northern Italy by rail. Train travel is affordable and fun, eliminating the hassle of renting a car and the stress of driving in a foreign country. We could sit back, relax, and enjoy the scenery as we moved from one destination to the next.
“How to Travel by Train in Italy” is an informative article if you are planning rail travel in Italy. There are several smartphone apps available to buy tickets and manage your trip. I relied on the user friendly Omio Travel App, and it worked great for me (small 3rd party fee). Rome to Rio is another app I found helpful in planning our travels.
My personal comfort cushion was to arrive 45 minutes before departure from large train stations such as Milan Centrale, and I especially recommend it if it’s your first time train traveling. For smaller stations, 30 minutes worked nicely for us. The trains we booked were mostly prompt, varying a few minutes here and there.
Beautiful Northern Italy
The article Northern Italy Region and Where to Visit provides information on the various regions of upper Italy. This area is truly a treasure, based on its culture and stunning landscapes. We had the pleasure of traveling to various destinations within each region.
I tailored our trip based on our personal preferences as to pace, destinations, hotels, and tours. Our style of travel will not suit everyone, but it works for us in this season of our lives. We prefer to take full advantage of new travel destinations, so we pack in a lot!
Our 19-day sojourn through Northern Italy was short/fast-paced as to city-time. We balanced it out with longer, more relaxing (yet active) stays in the countryside. I hope the following details of our itinerary and my reflections will be insightful and timesaving for anyone who wishes to plan and book such a trip themselves.
Romantic Venice
Duration
1 night. 9:25 AM arrival at Venice Marco Polo Airport via overnight flight. 5:18 PM departure next day via Frecciarossa high-speed train from Venice Santa Lucia Station to Verona Porta Nuova station.
Accommodations
St. Regis Venice (splurge/used points).
Highlights
‘Alone in St. Mark’s & Doge’s Palace Tour‘ after hours (6 pm to 10 pm); evening in St. Marks Piazza; outdoor lunch on the Grand Canal (at the hotel); accidental visit to Murano.
Helpful Link
Reflections
I planned a brief visit to Venice, thinking I would not want to stay long. In retrospect, I would have enjoyed another ½ day and night in the unique atmosphere of the ‘Floating City’. In route from the airport to our hotel, we accidentally exited our Alilaguna Water Bus on the Island of Murano (a destination I didn’t think I could fit into our brief stay). Murano is famous for its long tradition of glassmaking, and we enjoyed our unintentional visit!
By booking night tours, we could perfectly accommodate our tight schedule, while also avoiding large daytime crowds. The break between our tours allowed us to relax and enjoy one of many outdoor cafes in St. Mark’s Square.
Sipping cocktails and eating nibbles, while enjoying orchestra music, people watching, and a stunning view of St. Mark’s Basilica. Our favorite splurge in Venice was a water taxi transfer from our hotel to the train station upon departure. It was a wonderful way to experience the Grand Canal.
Charming Verona
Duration
1 night. Departed Venice Santa Lucia station at 5:18 PM via Frecciarossa high-speed train and arrived at Verona Porta Nuova station at 6:30 PM.
Accommodations
Highlights
Piazza Bra (Arena); Piazza Erbe (Juliet’s house, Torre Dei Lamberti); Ponte Pietra Bridge.
Helpful Link
Verona Itinerary-Best things to do in Verona in 1, 2 or 3 days
Reflections
Verona, a less touristed but charming city, is renowned for being the backdrop of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet. The city embraces the story yet has many other attractions. We enjoyed self-touring and loved experiencing our one evening in the electric atmosphere generated by a summer opera performance at the historical Verona Arena.
Because of our brief visit, we opted to tour the city on foot rather than attend the Verona Opera, but I can’t imagine a more magical opera venue. It would have been ideal to tour Verona for another half day.
Enchanting Ortisei
Duration
4 nights. 12:20 PM departure Verona Porta Nuova station; 1:48 PM arrival at Bolzano/Bozen Station via Frecciarossa high-speed train. Short walk to catch Bus 350 (inexpensive/hot/crowded) to Ortisei.
Accommodations
Highlights
Seceda Peaks; Alpe di Siusi; Lago di Braies; stunning views; multi fitness levels of hiking.
Helpful Link
Reflections
Ortisei served as our home base for exploring the Dolomites, one of my favorite destinations on our itinerary. Heaven on earth is not an exaggeration when describing this beautiful area. The Dolomites were one of the places we visited where a rental car would be useful, but we managed without one. It was easy to get around the town on foot. It was a short walk to each of the two lifts that access the scenic Seceda Peaks and the Alpe di Siusi.
We spent the better part of two days exploring the foregoing, taking short hikes that included stops at cute little alpine huts to enjoy the scenery, a bite, and a beverage. Otherwise, we had the hotel arrange a car/driver for one full day to explore other parts of the region, including visits to the stunning Lago di Braies (a hike around this lake or boat rental not to be missed) and the city of Cortina. I would absolutely love to visit the Dolomites again!
Fabulous Milan
Duration
1 night. Departed Bolzano/Bozen Station at 1:12 PM via Frecciarossa high-speed train, arriving at Milan Centrale at 4:21 PM.
Accommodations
Highlights
The Best of Milan Tour; Da Vinci’s ‘The Last Supper; ‘ Duomo; the Galleria.
Helpful Link
Where to Stay in Milan; 8 Incredible Areas and Epic Hotels
Reflections
We experienced Milan in a whirlwind! Similar to Venice and Verona, it was a city I wished to see on the way to the next countryside stop. I was mainly interested in the Milan Duomo and Da Vinci’s The Last Supper, the latter of which requires a timed reservation. The only available tour on the needed date was a full day of walking to see multiple sites in Milan, which included tickets to The Last Supper.
So, after a good night’s sleep, we ate an early breakfast, checked out of our hotel and had them store our luggage. We then set off on foot to meet our tour group and enjoyed a busy day sight-seeing in Milan. By the time we finished the tour, retrieved our luggage, and headed to the train station, we were happily exhausted!
Relaxing Lake Maggiore/Stresa
Duration
3 nights. Departed Milan Centrale station at 5:25 PM and arrived at Stresa station at 6:37 PM via Regionale Trenord train.
Accommodations
Grand Hotel Des Iles Borromees
Highlights
Isola Bella; strolling lake promenade; shopping; restaurants; town center.
Helpful Link
Where to Stay on Lago Maggiore
Reflections
My original plan was to visit the more popular Lake Como. Unfortunately, I didn’t book early enough to secure a reservation. Stresa, on Lake Maggiore, is a great alternative. If not better! We splurged on a historical hotel frequented by the likes of Ernest Hemingway and savored the most beautiful sunsets from our balcony overlooking the lake.
Mostly, we relaxed and self-toured, taking a boat ride out to see the stunning Isola Bella, whose gardens are not to be missed. Also, Stresa provided the perfect opportunity to do laundry, since we each traveled light with a carry-on and backpack. For an extended stay, a car rental would be handy to explore the area and take a day trip to Switzerland.
Moody Piedmont-Wine, Truffles and Turin
Duration
2 nights. Departed Stresa station at 12:36 PM via Regionale train and arrived at Rho Fiera metro station (Milan) at 2:00 PM. Transferred to Frecciarossa high-speed train and departed at 2:29 PM, arriving at Turin Porta Nuova station at 3:21 PM.
Accommodations
Highlights
Barolo wine tasting; farmhouse lunch with truffle dishes; truffle hunt; alluring scenery.
Helpful Link
The Piedmont Region of Italy: Complete Guide to Best Places
Reflections
Turin served as our jump-off to visit wine, hazelnut, and truffle country in Northern Italy. With such a quick visit, we didn’t tour Turin itself, only visiting what was within walking distance of our hotel. That said, Turin is a lesser traveled, but worthy destination. A rental car would come in handy if visiting the Piedmont wine region. Since we didn’t have one, we opted for our hotel to secure a car/driver for the day.
We then set out for wine country to enjoy a lovely Barolo wine tasting and vineyard visit, followed by a delicious truffle centric lunch at a lovely little farmhouse. After lunch, we enjoyed taking part in a truffle hunt, our enthusiastic truffle dog securing one black truffle for us! We were back at our hotel by late afternoon and able to see a bit of Turin before our departure the next morning.
Magical Santa Margherita Ligure/Italian Riviera
Duration
3 nights. Departed Turin Porta Nuova station at 10:25 AM via Regionale Veloce train and arrived at Savona station at 12:41 PM. Then switched to Regionale train departing at 1:10 PM and arriving at Santa Margherita-Ligure-Portofino station at 3:01 PM. To visit Cinque Terre, we took a Regionale Veloce train from SML, then traveled between villages (5 minutes apart) via the Cinque Terre Express train system.
Accommodations
Highlights
Waterfront; restaurants; day trip to Cinque Terre; ferry ride to visit Portofino.
Helpful Link
The 7 Best Italian Riviera Towns and How to Enjoy Them
Reflections
Just when you think it can’t get any better, it does! The Italian Riviera is magical, meeting my expectations based on the amazing online photos I’d viewed. The town of Santa Margherita Ligure (SML) is one of its gems, serving as our seaside base camp and a jump-off to explore the area. I would easily agree to an extended stay in this dreamy resort region!
We had the grace of lovely weather during our visit, enhancing our stay and our ferry ride to see the popular celebrity destination of Portofino. The villages comprising Cinque Terre were a highlight despite the crowds (even in September) and despite the equally busy Cinque Terre Express trains. You can also hike between villages if preferred. My favorite experience was taking in a stunning sunset in the Village of Riomaggiore. I recommend visiting Cinque Terre early in the morning, or late afternoon/early evening when the crowds are smaller.
All Roads Lead to Rome!
Duration
2 nights. Departed Santa Margherita Ligure-Portofino station at 7:12 AM on a Regionale train, arriving at Rapallo station at 7:15 AM. Switched to Frecciarossa high-speed train departing at 7:57 AM, arriving at Rome Termini station at 11:32 AM. Upon departure from Rome, we opted to take a cab to Leonardo da Vinci Fiumicino Airport (about 40 minutes from our hotel).
Accommodations
Highlights
Skip the Line Vatican Tour with Sistine Chapel and St. Peters; Special Access Colosseum Arena Floor Tour/Roman Forum, Palatine Hill Tour; Pantheon; Trevi Fountain.
Helpful Link
Reflections
My partner really wanted to explore the ‘Eternal City’ even though it is not in Northern Italy. Turns out, it was a perfect place to end our trip! We departed SML early in the morning, embarking on a relaxing 3 and a ½ hour scenic train ride along the coast and through the Tuscan countryside.
Upon arrival in Rome, we transferred to our hotel for early check-in, then took a cab to Café Vaticano, the meeting spot for our 2:30 PM Vatican/St. Peter’s Basilica tour. We had just enough time to eat lunch before the tour began. Honestly, the crowds touring the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel were claustrophobic during this time. I’d highly recommend a private or small group tour in the evening for a more meaningful experience.
As for hotel accommodations, it was hard to choose where to stay in Rome, partially since I waited too long to book. If your primary goal is sightseeing ancient landmarks, I recommend booking early to secure a hotel near those attractions.
Our 2nd tour, taken the next morning, was the most enjoyable for us. After the tour, we spent the afternoon exploring on our own with visits to the Pantheon and the Trevi Fountain (other areas to visit early morning or evening to avoid the massive crowds). Our busy day culminated with dinner at a street café and then back to the hotel to pack for our early morning flight home.
Arrivederci!
No doubt, this trip was a big splurge for us. It was expensive but using banked travel points helped with airfare and hotel expenses. Good news, you can enjoy this itinerary on a tighter budget! September was a lovely time to visit Italy. May is another good choice, with both months being just off-season.
Best of all, we created such lovely memories! Such as immersing ourselves in the incredible culture and scenery of Northern Italy (and Rome) and visiting many historical sites. Tasty Aperol Spritz aperitifs were fabulous in the late afternoon, as was eating delicious gelato anytime! Until next time, arrivederci and Viva Italia!
Let’s Have a Conversation:
Have you traveled to Italy? What are your favorite Italian destinations and why? What tips and hacks do you recommend for traveling in Italy?
Thank you for sharing your Italy experience! It’s on my bucket list but now I want to see the Dolomites and Lago di Braies. Simply beautiful!
You mentioned “crowds”. For me, the way the world has been overrun by tourists in the last 20 years has made traveling a nightmare. Europe in particular has been done to death by hordes of people, but even South America is jam-packed. You have to book a slot to see Machu Picchu
Hi Gerry,
This may be so for places that are overly marketed. But if you choose a less popular destination, you will be surprised that there are no crowds to run away from.
AAh Italy. You have opened many windows for me in towns and cities I have visited and others still on my wish list.
I hope you can indulge me since most of the people that could hear my story have passed on. Over 40 years ago, my husband and I were married in a hilltop town overlooking Pisa, Italy. You could stand at the top of the hill and peer over into the valley spotting a 1-in tall leaning tower. We were married in front of townspeople packed in pews in a small church. A church in which as a young boy he would be the altar boy for his priest uncle who married us. We were given a feast surrounded by family in a local nunnery room that was painted with trompe l’oeil. So magical….so long ago.
My husband has passed on. Our names and our marriage are immortalized in a hand-painted illuminated book of marriages and births from the 16th century. I can visualize the tiny room, my young husband and I signing into such a relic. I can still feel the enormity of that gesture. It is a fairytale of my own.
Thank you for sharing your part of your town history. I love how villages and townspeople still celebrate large human events. And certainly, your marriage counts as one of those! Keep enjoying the magic.
Thank you so much for your appreciation…yep, it was like something out of the movies. Everyone was already fond of my husband and completing the circle of our lives became their wish for him.